Monday, 18 January 2010

'Food is just not that important'

I've got it! I've worked out why those mock italian chains inspire my homicidal side. It was when someone said: “sometimes, you know, food is just not that important”. Those chains (and Jamie, I include you) provide the food for people that don't care about food. You don't need to cut or chew it: it just sucks. You don't need to address the issue that your food died for you as its either hidden or it didn't. You don't need to think about the taste as it's just old familiar favourites. It's mock authentic, mock food: aural muzak for the chattering classes.

That's what the italian chains do so well: a buzzy atmosphere, erzatz charming service, quick delivery of food that is designed to hit the right notes while not being noticed. Get a grip makhno: “it's just food”.

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